Mont Blanc du Tacul

Popis:
Mont Blanc (4807 m.n.m.) je najvyšším vrcholom Álp. Nachádza sa v západných Alpách, v časti Skupina Mont Blanc (Mont Blanc Massif), na rozhraní Francúzska a Talianska. Prvovýstup uskutočnil na podnet prírodovedca Horace-Bénédicta de Saussure 8.8.1786 Jaques Balmat a Michel-Gabriel Paccard. Prvý zimný výstup I. Straton, J. Charlet a S. Coutett (31.1.1876).
Prístup:
Hlavné strediská na francúzskej strane Chamonix (Haute-Savoie) a na talianskej strane Courchevel (Valle d’Aosta) sú prepojené 11,6 km dlhým diaľničným tunelom popod Mont Blanc (v roku 1999 v ňom uhorelo 39 ľudí) ako aj sústavou kabíniek cez Aiguille du Midi.
Sprievodca:
Na vrchol vedie vyše 100 ciest. Pre každý výstup je nutná ľadovcová výzbroj. Spracované sú najzaujímavejšie.
Mont Blanc - normálne cesty:
- Hrebeň Goûter
(Gouter Ridge, Mont Blanc voie normale)- Popis: chata Nid d’Aigle - chata Tête Rousse (2 - 3h) - chata Goûter (2 - 3h) - Dôme du Goûter (4303 m.n.m.) - Col du Goûter (4240 m.n.m.) - bivak Vallot - Mont Blanc (4807 m.n.m., 5h), najfrekventovanejšia cesta, aj skialpinistická túra, potom sa lyže zväčša nechávajú v bivaku Vallot.
- Obtiažnosť: PD-/+, II UIAA, do 40° na hrebeni Bosses
- Prvovýstup: L. Stephen, F. Tuckett, M. Anderegg, J. Bennen & P. Perren (18.7.1861)
- Literatúra: Rebuffat #24; Griffin I #57; Eberlein #181; Goedeke s.210
- Grand Mulets
- Popis: stanica Plan de l’Aiguille (2310m) - chata Grands Mulets Hut (3h) - Mont Blanc (4807 m.n.m., 6-7h), dvakrát dlhšia ako cesta cez hrebeň Goûter, skialpinistická túra.
- Obtiažnosť: PD, I UIAA, do 40°
- Prvovýstup: E. Headland, G. Hodgkinson, C. Hodson, G. Joan, F. Couttet (29.7.1859)
- Literatúra: Griffin I #58; Eberlein #182; Goedeke s.212
- Cosmique
(traverz z Aiguille du Midi cez Mont Blanc du Tacul a Mont Maudit na Mont Blanc)- Popis: stanica Aiguille du Midi - chata Cosmique - Mont Blanc du Tacul - Mont Maudit - Mont Blanc (4807 m.n.m.).
- Obtiažnosť: PD+, do 50°
- Prvovýstup: R. Head, J. Grange, A. Orset, J. Perrot (13.8.1863)
- Literatúra: Griffin I #62; Eberlein #188; Goedeke s.198,
- Sombardier/Tanguy
- Aiguilles Grises
(talianska normálka)- Popis: La Visaille/Plan Lognan v doline ValVeni (1670 m.n.m.) - reštaurácia Plan Combal (1990 m.n.m., 1h) - chata Gonella (3072 m.n.m., 4h) - Mont Blanc (4807 m.n.m., 7-8h), alpinistická túra.
- Obtiažnosť: PD+, do 40° (ľadovcom), PD, II UAIAA mix (mimo ľadovca)
- Prvovýstup: L. a J. Bonin, Achille Ratti (pápež Pius XI), J. Gadin, A. Proment (1890)
- Literatúra: Rebuffat #30, Griffin I #63; Eberlein #252; Goedeke s.212
Mont Blanc - severná strana:
- Severný hrebeň Dôme du Goûter
(Northern ridge Dôme du Goûter)- Popis: prevýšenie 1800, 7-8 hodín z chaty Grands Mulets.
- Obtiažnosť: AD-, ľadovec do 45°
- Prvovýstup: J. Balmat, J. Carrier, F. Paccard, J. Tournier (8.6.1786)
- Literatúra: Griffin I #59; Eberlein #183
Mont Blanc - južná strana:
- Hrebeň Innominata
(Mont Blanc arete de l’Innominata, Peuterey Innominata)- Popis: prevýšenie 800m, 8-11 hodín z chaty Eccles Bivouac.
- Obtiažnosť: D/D+, mix, 54°, UIAA IV
- Prvovýstup: S. Courtaud, E. Oliver, A. Aufdenblatten, A. a H. Rey (19.-20.8.1909), 1. zima J. Couzy a A. Vialette (26.2.1956).
- Literatúra: Rebuffat #81, Griffin I #99; Eberlein #230
- Hrebeň Peuterey
(Mont Blanc arete de Peuterey, Peuterey Ridge)- Popis: prevýšenie 2500m, množstvo variánt.
- Dames Anglaises Ridge: D+, III, 17-21 hodín z chaty Monzino.
- North Face Left-Hand Route: D+/TD-, 700m, 6-8 hodín z chaty Trident.
- Couloir du col de Peuterey (North-East Couloir): D, 550m.
- Grand Pilier d’Angle East Face (Pilier d’Angle): TD+/ED1, UIAA V+.
- Obtiažnosť: UIAA II/III, občas IV, mix do 54°
- Prvovýstup: Emile Rey, Christian Klucker, César Ollier, Paul Güssfeldt (1893), Obersteiner a Schreiner (Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, 30-31.7.1927), G. Herzog, M. Herzog, G. Rébuffat a L Terray (Col de Peuterey, 15.8.1944).
- Literatúra: Rebuffat #95, Griffin I #85/127/123/83; Eberlein #230
- Centrálny pilier Freney
(Mont Blanc pilier central du Frêney, Central Pillar of Freney, Freney Face Central Pillar, Der Frêneypfeiler)- Popis: prevýšenie 500m pilier a ďalších 700m na vrchol, legendárna a asi najťažšia cesta spojená s menom Walter Bonatti. Nákres cesty (TOPO1), (TOPO2).
- Obtiažnosť: ED1, UIAA V+/VI A1 (voľne VIII/VIII+ resp. 7a+)
- Prvovýstup: Chris Bonington , Ian Clough, J. Djuglosz a D. Whillans (27.-29.8.1961) , 1. zima R. Desmaison a R. Flematti (1.-6.2.1967).
- Literatúra: Rebuffat #100, Griffin I #91; Eberlein #224

Mont Blanc - východná strana:
- Brenva Spur
(Mont Blanc eperon de la Brenva)- Popis: prevýšenie 900m na Col du Brenva a 1300m na vrchol, 9-11 hodín z chaty Trident.
- Obtiažnosť: AD/D-, mix, 45°-50°, UIAA II-III
- Prvovýstup: G. Mathews, A. Moore, F. a H.Walker, J. a M. Anderegg (15.7.1865), 1. zima J. Couzy a A. Vialette (26.2.1956).
- Literatúra: Rebuffat #56, Griffin I #73; Eberlein #191
- Majorova cesta
(Mont Blanc voie Major, Major Route)- Popis: prevýšenie 1300m, 10-14 hodín z chaty Foruche.
- Obtiažnosť: TD-/TD, mix, 57°, UIAA IV-V
- Prvovýstup: T. Graham a F. Smythe (6.-7.8.1928), 1. zima M. Shigi (feb 1976).
- Literatúra: Rebuffat #90, Griffin I #75; Eberlein #195
Mapa oblasti:

RESUMÉ: Climbing and tourist guide for Mont Blanc (4807m).
Knihy / Guidebooks:
- Pascal Sombardier, Pascal Tanguy: Nejkrásnější alpské vrcholy, Snow Press, 2003 (česky)
- Gaston Rebuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif: the 100 Finest Routes
Baton Wicks Publications, 1996. (english)
- Griffin Lindsay: Mont Blanc Massif - Selected Climbs. Volume 1 (Col de la Bérangè to Col de Talèfre).
Alpine Club 1990. (english)
- Griffin Lindsay: Mont Blanc Massif - Selected Climbs. Volume 2 (Col de Talèfre to Swiss Val Ferret, Chamonix Aiguilles and Aiguilles Rouges).
Alpine Club 1991. (english)
- Goedeke Richard: The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes. - a guide for mountaineers.
Bâton Wicks 1991. (english)
- Eberlein Hartmunt: Mont Blanc Gruppe - Gebietsführer für Bergsteiger und Kletterer”. Bergverlag Rother, Ottobrunn, 2000. (deutsch)
Mapy / Maps:
- Cartes IGN, Chamonix-Mont Blanc 1:25 000
- Historická mapa - rok 1914
- Letná 3D mapa - francúzska strana z údolia Chamonix
Užitočné odkazy / Useful links:
- CAF - Club Alpin Français (français)
- CAI - Club Alpin Italiano (italiano)
- Massif Mont Blanc - Maps (english)
- SummitPost.org (english)
- 4000er (deutsch/english)
- TV Mountain - TOPO videoclips (français)
- Nobuyuki Fujita (english)
- Ari´s Base Camp (english)
- Cesta Goûter by BMC (english)
- Cesta Goûter (english)
- Cesta Goûter (česky)
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