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Mont Blanc du Tacul

Popis:

Mont Blanc (4807 m.n.m.) je najvyšším vrcholom Álp. Nachádza sa v západných Alpách, v časti Skupina Mont Blanc (Mont Blanc Massif), na rozhraní Francúzska a Talianska. Prvovýstup uskutočnil na podnet prírodovedca Horace-Bénédicta de Saussure 8.8.1786 Jaques Balmat a Michel-Gabriel Paccard. Prvý zimný výstup I. Straton, J. Charlet a S. Coutett (31.1.1876).

Prístup:

Hlavné strediská na francúzskej strane Chamonix (Haute-Savoie) a na talianskej strane Courchevel (Valle d’Aosta) sú prepojené 11,6 km dlhým diaľničným tunelom popod Mont Blanc (v roku 1999 v ňom uhorelo 39 ľudí) ako aj sústavou kabíniek cez Aiguille du Midi.

Sprievodca:

Na vrchol vedie vyše 100 ciest. Pre každý výstup je nutná ľadovcová výzbroj. Spracované sú najzaujímavejšie.

Mont Blanc - normálne cesty:

1. Hrebeň Goûter
   (Gouter Ridge, Mont Blanc voie normale)
   • Popis: chata Nid d’Aigle - chata Tête Rousse (2 - 3h) - chata Goûter (2 - 3h) - Dôme du Goûter (4303 m.n.m.) - Col du Goûter (4240 m.n.m.) - bivak Vallot - Mont Blanc (4807 m.n.m., 5h), najfrekventovanejšia cesta, aj skialpinistická túra, potom sa lyže zväčša nechávajú v bivaku Vallot.
   • Obtiažnosť: PD-/+, II UIAA, do 40° na hrebeni Bosses
   • Prvovýstup: L. Stephen, F. Tuckett, M. Anderegg, J. Bennen & P. Perren (18.7.1861)
   • Literatúra: Rebuffat #24; Griffin I #57; Eberlein #181; Goedeke s.210
2. Grand Mulets
   • Popis: stanica Plan de l’Aiguille (2310m) - chata Grands Mulets Hut (3h) - Mont Blanc (4807 m.n.m., 6-7h), dvakrát dlhšia ako cesta cez hrebeň Goûter, skialpinistická túra.
   • Obtiažnosť: PD, I UIAA, do 40°
   • Prvovýstup: E. Headland, G. Hodgkinson, C. Hodson, G. Joan, F. Couttet (29.7.1859)
   • Literatúra: Griffin I #58; Eberlein #182; Goedeke s.212
3. Cosmique
   (traverz z Aiguille du Midi cez Mont Blanc du Tacul a Mont Maudit na Mont Blanc)
   • Popis: stanica Aiguille du Midi - chata Cosmique - Mont Blanc du Tacul - Mont Maudit - Mont Blanc (4807 m.n.m.).
   • Obtiažnosť: PD+, do 50°
   • Prvovýstup: R. Head, J. Grange, A. Orset, J. Perrot (13.8.1863)
   • Literatúra: Griffin I #62; Eberlein #188; Goedeke s.198,
   • Sombardier/Tanguy
4. Aiguilles Grises
   (talianska normálka)
   • Popis: La Visaille/Plan Lognan v doline ValVeni (1670 m.n.m.) - reštaurácia Plan Combal (1990 m.n.m., 1h) - chata Gonella (3072 m.n.m., 4h) - Mont Blanc (4807 m.n.m., 7-8h), alpinistická túra.
   • Obtiažnosť: PD+, do 40° (ľadovcom), PD, II UAIAA mix (mimo ľadovca)
   • Prvovýstup: L. a J. Bonin, Achille Ratti (pápež Pius XI), J. Gadin, A. Proment (1890)
   • Literatúra: Rebuffat #30, Griffin I #63; Eberlein #252; Goedeke s.212

Mont Blanc - severná strana:

1. Severný hrebeň Dôme du Goûter
   (Northern ridge Dôme du Goûter)
   • Popis: prevýšenie 1800, 7-8 hodín z chaty Grands Mulets.
   • Obtiažnosť: AD-, ľadovec do 45°
   • Prvovýstup: J. Balmat, J. Carrier, F. Paccard, J. Tournier (8.6.1786)
   • Literatúra: Griffin I #59; Eberlein #183

Mont Blanc - južná strana:

1. Hrebeň Innominata
   (Mont Blanc arete de l’Innominata, Peuterey Innominata)
   • Popis: prevýšenie 800m, 8-11 hodín z chaty Eccles Bivouac.
   • Obtiažnosť: D/D+, mix, 54°, UIAA IV
   • Prvovýstup: S. Courtaud, E. Oliver, A. Aufdenblatten, A. a H. Rey (19.-20.8.1909), 1. zima J. Couzy a A. Vialette (26.2.1956).
   • Literatúra: Rebuffat #81, Griffin I #99; Eberlein #230
2. Hrebeň Peuterey
   (Mont Blanc arete de Peuterey, Peuterey Ridge)
   • Popis: prevýšenie 2500m, množstvo variánt.
   • Dames Anglaises Ridge: D+, III, 17-21 hodín z chaty Monzino.
   • North Face Left-Hand Route: D+/TD-, 700m, 6-8 hodín z chaty Trident.
   • Couloir du col de Peuterey (North-East Couloir): D, 550m.
   • Grand Pilier d’Angle East Face (Pilier d’Angle): TD+/ED1, UIAA V+.
   • Obtiažnosť: UIAA II/III, občas IV, mix do 54°
   • Prvovýstup: Emile Rey, Christian Klucker, César Ollier, Paul Güssfeldt (1893), Obersteiner a Schreiner (Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, 30-31.7.1927), G. Herzog, M. Herzog, G. Rébuffat a L Terray (Col de Peuterey, 15.8.1944).
   • Literatúra: Rebuffat #95, Griffin I #85/127/123/83; Eberlein #230
3. Centrálny pilier Freney
   (Mont Blanc pilier central du Frêney, Central Pillar of Freney, Freney Face Central Pillar, Der Frêneypfeiler)
   • Popis: prevýšenie 500m pilier a ďalších 700m na vrchol, legendárna a asi najťažšia cesta spojená s menom Walter Bonatti. Nákres cesty (TOPO1), (TOPO2).
   • Obtiažnosť: ED1, UIAA V+/VI A1 (voľne VIII/VIII+ resp. 7a+)
   • Prvovýstup: Chris Bonington , Ian Clough, J. Djuglosz a D. Whillans (27.-29.8.1961) , 1. zima R. Desmaison a R. Flematti (1.-6.2.1967).
   • Literatúra: Rebuffat #100, Griffin I #91; Eberlein #224

Mont Blanc - východná strana:

1. Brenva Spur
   (Mont Blanc eperon de la Brenva)
   • Popis: prevýšenie 900m na Col du Brenva a 1300m na vrchol, 9-11 hodín z chaty Trident.
   • Obtiažnosť: AD/D-, mix, 45°-50°, UIAA II-III
   • Prvovýstup: G. Mathews, A. Moore, F. a H.Walker, J. a M. Anderegg (15.7.1865), 1. zima J. Couzy a A. Vialette (26.2.1956).
   • Literatúra: Rebuffat #56, Griffin I #73; Eberlein #191
2. Majorova cesta
   (Mont Blanc voie Major, Major Route)
   • Popis: prevýšenie 1300m, 10-14 hodín z chaty Foruche.
   • Obtiažnosť: TD-/TD, mix, 57°, UIAA IV-V
   • Prvovýstup: T. Graham a F. Smythe (6.-7.8.1928), 1. zima M. Shigi (feb 1976).
   • Literatúra: Rebuffat #90, Griffin I #75; Eberlein #195

Mapa oblasti:

RESUMÉ: Climbing and tourist guide for Mont Blanc (4807m).

Knihy / Guidebooks:

• Pascal Sombardier, Pascal Tanguy: Nejkrásnější alpské vrcholy, Snow Press, 2003 (česky)
• Gaston Rebuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif: the 100 Finest Routes Baton Wicks Publications, 1996. (english)
• Griffin Lindsay: Mont Blanc Massif - Selected Climbs. Volume 1 (Col de la Bérangè to Col de Talèfre). Alpine Club 1990. (english)
• Griffin Lindsay: Mont Blanc Massif - Selected Climbs. Volume 2 (Col de Talèfre to Swiss Val Ferret, Chamonix Aiguilles and Aiguilles Rouges). Alpine Club 1991. (english)
• Goedeke Richard: The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes. - a guide for mountaineers. Bâton Wicks 1991. (english)
• Eberlein Hartmunt: Mont Blanc Gruppe - Gebietsführer für Bergsteiger und Kletterer”. Bergverlag Rother, Ottobrunn, 2000. (deutsch)

Mapy / Maps:

• Cartes IGN, Chamonix-Mont Blanc 1:25 000
• Historická mapa - rok 1914
• Letná 3D mapa - francúzska strana z údolia Chamonix

Užitočné odkazy / Useful links:

• CAF - Club Alpin Français (français)
• CAI - Club Alpin Italiano (italiano)
• Massif Mont Blanc - Maps (english)
• SummitPost.org (english)
• 4000er (deutsch/english)
• TV Mountain - TOPO videoclips (français)
• Nobuyuki Fujita (english)
• Ari´s Base Camp (english)
• Cesta Goûter by BMC (english)
• Cesta Goûter (english)
• Cesta Goûter (česky)

Popularity: 100%

This entry was posted on Nedeľa, Máj 8th, 2005 at 12:34 and is filed under Netriedené, Európa, Aktivity, Horolezectvo, Lezenie v ľade, Vysokohorská turistika, Francúzsko, Alpy, Skupina Mont Blanc. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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